Jerash

November 17, 2019 – Jerash is an ancient city about 50 km north of Amman. The archaeological park within the modern city is home to one of the largest sites of Roman ruins outside of Rome. The journey at Jerash begins at the mighty Arch of Hadrian, built when the Roman Emperor visited Jerash (then Gerasa) and the other cities of the Roman Decapolis. If you’re keeping track, I’ve visited 3 of the 10 cities of the Decapolis (Gerasa, Gadara, and Philadelphia).

The colossal Arch of Hadrian at Jerash’s entrance
Our CIEE group shot in front of Hadrian’s Arch

Jerash is nicknamed the “city of columns,” and it’s easy to see why as you walk through the streets of the ancient city. Large columns of every style loom over the various centers and streets of Jerash. (Lots of pictures of columns ahead)

Some of the columns surrounding Jerash’s forum
Jerash’s famous colonnaded streets. This road leads out of the city to the East.
The forum from above
Jerash’s cardo maximus (the North-South street in every Roman city. Jerash’s connects Damascus in the North to Amman (Philadelphia) in the South).
Jerash’s nymphaeum

A special feature of Jerash’s columns is that some of them can still be moved by human force. At the Temple of Artemis, a spoon can be positioned where the column meets its base, and when one pushes against the column, the spoon will move up and down, proving that the columns in Jerash are not as stable as they seem!

The steps to the Temple of Artemis
Moving the columns at the Temple of Artemis

After Jerash, we went to Ajloun Castle. The castle was commissioned by Salah al-Din as a means of defense from the invading crusaders. Historically, Ajloun Castle lies on a strategic road from Damascus to Alexandria, creating an epicenter for taxation and military control on the trade route.

An example of the interior of Ajloun Castle

On Friday night and Saturday morning, Amman experienced short, light bursts of rain, lasting no more than 10-30 minutes at a time. The Jordanians welcome the rain, marking it as the beginning of winter in Amman. I took a walk around my neighborhood on Saturday after the rains, and captured a beautiful photo of the cold, sunny day.

Jabal Weibdeh after the November rains

It is getting very cold in Amman. Currently daily highs average about 17°C (62°F) and lows averaging about 4°C (39°F) with wind about 9 mph. I’ve been wearing sweaters and my winter jacket to school, and sleeping under 2 blankets at night.
The Christmas Villages begin this weekend in Amman, and my friends and I are excited to explore them before we head back to the states to celebrate Christmas with our families.

-Matt

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  1. Will you be seeing any of the other cities that comprise the Roman Decapolis?
    This is an unbeilable journey you have been on. I have enjoyed your travels vicariously.
    Thank you for spending the time to inform us of your experiences.

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